Tips for travel to Guanajuato

Our Guanajuato travel tips section is designed to provide you with valuable information on the destinations we serve. You can access weather reports, convert currency, browse through destination guides, research passport and visa information and much more.

Introduction

Dining & Entertainment

Entry Requirements

Money & Emergency

Weather

Map

Fun Things To Do

Health & Safety Links

Flight Overview

Introduction

It is easy to lose yourself in the streets of Guanajuato. They seem designed for just that purpose as they curl this way and that, becoming alleys or stairways, and intersecting each other at different angles. At times it can seem like the Twilight Zone; people hurriedly passing by a curious-looking shop intending to return later, and then are never able to locate it again. To make matters worse, the streets are filled with things that can draw your attention away from the business of getting from one place to another. The town is so photogenic; everywhere you look is postcard material. Most buildings, like the streets, are irregular in shape, creating a jumble of walls, balconies, and rooftops meeting at anything but a right angle. The churches are the exception, having regular floor plans, but even they show asymmetry -- despite the best efforts of their builders, none has two matching towers, which only adds to their charm.

What To Do

Every year in October, the state of Guanajuato sponsors the Festival Cervantino (International Cervantes Festival), 2 weeks of performing arts from all over the world. In recent years, the festival has featured marionettes from the Czech Republic, the Eliot Feld Ballet from New York, the Kiev Ballet, and a host of Mexican artists. The shows are held in open plazas and theaters all over town. Book rooms well in advance during the festival; if Guanajuato is full, consider staying in San Miguel de Allende.

For ticket information and a schedule, contact Festival Cervantino, Plaza San Francisquito 1, 36000 Guanajuato, Gto. (tel. 473/731-1221). Once you know the schedule, you can order tickets through Ticketmaster in Mexico City (tel. 55/5325-9000). Keep your confirmation number; you'll need it to pick up your tickets in Guanajuato. The best time to be at the festival is during the week; on weekends it's absolute madness.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

Dining

Diners in Acapulco enjoy stunning views and fresh seafood. The Truco 7 - With its economical prices and warm atmosphere, this place is a solid choice for any meal. The three dining rooms are small and a bit crowded, yet nicely decorated with leather equipal tables and chairs and paintings by local artists. The restaurant occupies an 18th-century structure originally built for members of the Valenciana silver family. Calle Truco, a short street south of the basilica, runs between the Jardín Unión and the Plaza de la Paz.

El Claustro - A lot of locals really like this downtown hole-in-the-wall. Tables are outside on the square or inside in what was once the bodega of the building now occupied by the restaurant. Favorite things to eat here are the enchiladas, especially the rojas and the enmoladas. The pollo con mole (chicken with mole sauce) is good, too. Other dishes include various antojitos (small plates) and main dishes. The restaurant is within 50 paces of Avenida Juárez, almost across from the market.

Casa del Conde de la Valenciana - Dine in the former home of the count of La Valenciana, across the street from his other creation, La Valenciana church. You can eat on the patio or in one of the dining rooms. The menu is a combination of old standards and original recipes. For an appetizer, try a fresh salad or refreshing gazpacho served in a vessel encased in ice. For a main course, you can choose one of Mexico's traditional dishes, such as chicken mole, or perhaps chicken breast a la flor de calabaza. The shady patio is so relaxing and the chairs so comfortable that many linger here over coffee and dessert.

Entertainment

If city planners had known the Jardín Unión would be so popular, they might have made it larger. This tiny plaza, shaded by Indian laurel trees, is the heart of the city and the best hangout. No other spot in town rivals its benches and sidewalk restaurants.

You can catch some worthwhile free theater in Plazuela de San Roque on Sundays when the university is in session. Students perform short theatrical pieces known as entremeses (literally, "intermissions"). These are usually costumed period pieces that rely more on action than dialogue, so you don't need to understand too much Spanish to get the point. The costumes are great and look curiously appropriate in this plazuela.
More conventional nightspots -- such as dance clubs -- aren't difficult to find; ask at your hotel for local recommendations.

Money

Banks & ATMs
Banks in Mexico are rapidly expanding and improving services. They tend to be open weekdays from 9am until 5pm, and often for at least a half day on Saturday. In larger resorts and cities, they can generally accommodate the exchange of dollars (which used to stop at noon) anytime during business hours. During times when the currency is in flux, a particular bank may not exchange dollars, so check before standing in line. Some, but not all, banks charge a service fee of about 1% to exchange traveler's checks. However, you can pay for most purchases directly with traveler's checks at the establishment's stated exchange rate. Don't even bother with personal checks drawn on a U.S. bank -- the bank will wait for your check to clear, which can take weeks, before giving you your money.

Travelers to Mexico can easily withdraw money from ATMs (automated teller machine) in most major cities and resort areas. In most resorts in Mexico, the use of ATMs is perfectly safe -- just use the same precautions you would at any ATM. Universal bank cards (such as the Cirrus and PLUS systems) can be used. This is a convenient way to withdraw money and avoid carrying too much with you at any time. The exchange rate is generally more favorable than that at a casas de cambio. Most machines offer Spanish/English menus and dispense pesos, but some offer the option of withdrawing dollars. The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587) networks span the globe; look at the back of your bank card to see which network you're on, then call or check online for ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) before you leave home and be sure to find out your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Also keep in mind that many banks impose a fee every time a card is used at a different bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones (where they're rarely more than $1.50). On top of this, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee.

Traveler's Checks
Traveler's checks are something of an anachronism from the days before the ATM made cash accessible at any time. Traveler's checks used to be the only sound alternative to traveling with dangerously large amounts of cash. They were as reliable as currency, but, unlike cash, could be replaced if lost or stolen.

You can get traveler's checks at almost any bank. You can also get American Express traveler's checks over the phone by calling tel. 800/221-7282.

Visa offers traveler's checks at Citibank locations nationwide, as well as at several other banks. Call tel. 800/732-1322 for information. AAA members can obtain Visa checks without a fee at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378. MasterCard also offers traveler's checks. Call tel. 800/223-9920 for a location near you.

If you choose to carry traveler's checks, be sure to keep a record of their serial numbers separate from your checks in the event that they are stolen or lost. You'll get a refund faster if you know the numbers.

Credit Cards
Credit cards are a safe way to carry money: They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. You can also withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, provided you know your PIN. If you've forgotten yours, or didn't even know you had one, call the number on the back of your credit card and ask the bank to send it to you. It usually takes 5 to 7 business days, though some banks will provide the number over the phone if you tell them your mother's maiden name or some other personal information.

Charges will be made in pesos, then converted into dollars by the bank issuing the credit card. Generally you receive the favorable bank rate when paying by credit card. However, be aware that some establishments in Mexico add a 5% to 7% surcharge when you pay with a credit card. This is especially true when using American Express. Many times, advertised discounts will not apply if you pay with a credit card.

Dear Visa: I'm Off to Guanajuato! -- Some credit card companies recommend that you notify them of any impending trip abroad so that they don't become suspicious and block your charges when the card is used numerous times in a foreign destination. Even if you don't call your credit card company in advance, you can always call the toll-free emergency number if a charge is refused -- a good reason to carry the phone number with you. But perhaps the most important lesson is to carry more than one card on your trip; if one card doesn't work for any number of reasons, you'll have a backup.

Emergency

Emergency/Police-- Seguridad Pública (tel. 473/732-0266).

Hospital-- You have two reasonable choices: Centro Médico La Presa, Paseo de la Presa 85 (tel. 473/731-1074), and Clínica Plaza Mayor, in the western part of the city (tel. 473/732-2305).

Visitor Information -- The state tourism information office is at Plaza de la Paz 14, across from the basilica (tel. 473/732-0397, ext. 107). It's open Monday through Wednesday from 9am to 7pm, Thursday and Friday from 9am to 8pm, Saturday from 10am to 4pm, and Sunday and holidays from 10am to 2pm. It has a knowledgeable English-speaking staff and distributes a free map of the city.

Fun Things To Do in Guanajuato

Attractions & Activities

Guanajuato Attractions

The Church of San Diego, on the Jardín Unión, stands almost as it did in 1633, when it was built under the direction of Franciscan missionaries. A flood in 1760 nearly destroyed it. The reconstruction was completed in 1786, largely at the expense of the Count of La Valenciana. The pink cantera-stone facade is a fine example of the Mexican baroque.

The Plazuela del Baratillo, just behind the Jardín Unión, has a beautiful fountain (a gift from Emperor Maximilian) at its center. You'll always find people sitting around it peacefully, some in the shade and others in the sun. Its name derives from its former role as a weekly tianguis (market); vendors would yell "¡Barato!" ("Cheap!").

Just west of Baratillo is the Church of the Compañía. Built in 1747 by the Jesuit order, it was the biggest of their churches. It dominates the street. The churrigueresque decoration lightens it somewhat, but the interior, which was restored in the 19th century, is neoclassical. This church was built as part of a Jesuit university, which was founded in 1732 on orders of Philip V. It's the last of 23 universities the Jesuit order built in Mexico. The main building of the university is on the same block as the church. Its entrance was rebuilt in 1945 in imposing neoclassical style.

Farther west, between the main street, Juárez, and Calle Positos are three plazas almost connected to each other and worth seeing: Plaza San Roque, Jardín de la Reforma, and Plaza San Fernando, where you can sit at one of the outdoor tables and enjoy coffee in a perfectly charming setting. This plaza is an increasingly popular hangout, and it's a good area to find an Internet cafe.

Guanajuato Activities

El Pípila
This is the best vantage point in Guanajuato for photographs -- the whole city unfolds below you, with great views in every direction. A funicular railway runs up the hill from behind the church of San Diego. You can also climb the hill on foot up a rugged winding pathway. Just look for signs that read AL PIPILA (To El Pípila).

The statue is the city's monument to José de los Reyes Martínez, better known as El Pípila. According to the story, El Pípila (if he existed) was a brave young miner in Father Hidalgo's ragtag army of peasants and workers fighting for Mexican independence. Guanajuato was the first real battle of the war. The royalist forces took up their position inside the Alhóndiga de Granaditas. It seemed impregnable to Hidalgo's army, which lacked artillery. But El Pípila managed to breach the Spanish defenses by tying a flagstone to his back as protection, crawling to the fortress doors, and setting them ablaze. Today, El Pípila's statue raises a torch high over the city in everlasting vigilance; the inscription at his feet proclaims AUN HAY OTRAS ALHONDIGAS POR INCENDIAR (There still remain other alhóndigas to burn).

Museo Iconográfico del Quijote
There are only a few truly universal characters in the world of literature: Hamlet, Faust, Don Juan, and Don Quixote come to mind. Writers far and wide have taken up these characters and reworked their stories, but Don Quixote much more than the others has become a favorite subject of artists. The list includes Dalí, Picasso, Miró, Raul Angiano, José Guadalupe Posada, Daumier, José Moreno Carbonero, and Pedro Coronel. This museum, a long block southeast of the Jardín Unión, past the Hostería del Frayle, holds a fascinating collection of art based upon Don Quixote -- all Quixote, all the time! Particularly forceful are the sculptures and murals, but the sheer variety of forms and thematic treatment is what makes a stroll through this museum so entertaining.

Museo Regional La Alhóndiga de Granaditas
On the same street as the Rivera Museum, 2 blocks farther down, is La Alhóndiga. La Alhóndiga de Granaditas was built between 1798 and 1809 as the town granary -- hard to believe, because it is such a beautiful building. The Spanish took refuge here in 1810 when El Pípila and company captured Guanajuato. A slaughter ensued that Father Hidalgo was unable to stop. This convinced many people who had been leaning toward independence to remain loyal to Spain, although when the Spanish forces under Félix Calleja retook Guanajuato, they exacted an equally horrible revenge on the locals suspected of collusion. (The exhibitions tell the story.) By the next year, the royalist forces triumphed, and the heads of the insurrectionists Hidalgo, Allende, Aldama, and Jiménez adorned the four corners of the building, where they remained until 1821 as a dissuasive reminder.

The old granary now houses a museo regional. The interior courtyard is large and beautiful and shouldn't be missed. Two floors of rooms hold exhibits of pre-Columbian artifacts, displays on colonial history, and regional crafts. Adorning the two stairways to the second floor are the vivid murals of José Chávez Morado, who donated his pre-Hispanic art collection to the museum (and whose colonial-era collection is in the Museo del Pueblo de Guanajuato). The exhibits that follow take you through the region's colonial era and its role in the struggle for independence, all the way up to the Mexican Revolution. Explanatory text is in Spanish only, but the artifacts are interesting and well displayed. Down the hill from the Alhóndiga is the Mercado Hidalgo.

Museo de Los Momias (Mummy Museum)
First-time visitors find this museum grotesque or fascinating or both: Mummified remains of the dead, some of whom wear tattered clothing from centuries past, are on display. Dryness and the earth's gases and minerals in this particular panteón have halted decomposition. Because graveyards have limited space, bodies are eventually exhumed in Mexico to make room for newcomers. Those on display were exhumed between 1865 and 1985. The mummies stand or recline in glass cases, grinning, choking, or staring, while tour guides tell crowds of visitors macabre stories in Spanish of the fates of some of the deceased. Are they true? Quien sabe. But it's impossible to resist the temptation to go up and look at them, and this is the only graveyard I've seen with souvenir stands. They mostly sell sugar skulls and effigies of the mummies. Next to the mummy museum is a small exhibit called "El Culto a la Muerte," which is a bad mix of morbid and hokey.

Museo del Pueblo de Guanajuato
Just north of the Plaza de la Paz is this 17th-century mansion that once belonged to the Marqués San Juan de Rayas. The first and third floors display traveling exhibits; the second holds a fascinating collection of colonial-era civil and religious pieces gathered by distinguished local muralist José Chávez Morado. As a collector, Chávez Morado had an eye for the macabre, acquiring death portraits, some even eerier portraits of the living, and religious paintings on the subject of mortality. Also in the collection are some paintings by the gifted Hermenegildo Bustos, a portrait artist of the 19th century. There is a small collection of pre-Hispanic artifacts and several folk-art testimonials dedicated to the miraculous powers of various saints. The museum contains a couple of Chávez's murals; other works can be found at La Alhóndiga, down the street.

Museum Birthplace of Diego Rivera
From the Museo del Pueblo, walk 1 1/2 blocks farther down the street, and you'll find the house where the artist Diego Rivera was born on December 8, 1886. It has been restored and converted into a museum. The first floor is furnished as it might have been in the era of Rivera's birth. Upstairs there's a pretty good collection of his early works. He began painting when he was 10 years old and eventually moved to Paris, where he became a Marxist during World War I. The house contains a few sketches of some of the earlier murals that made his reputation, and paintings from 1902 to 1956. The fourth floor holds a small auditorium for lectures and conferences, and there you'll find a large representation of one of Rivera's most famous murals, Un Sueño Dominical en la Alameda.

Teatro Juárez
Built in 1903 during the opulent era of the Porfiriato, this theater is now the venue for many productions, especially during the Festival Cervantino. The exterior is starkly at odds with its surroundings -- Greco-Roman columns and pediments adorned with fin-de-siècle bronze lions and lanterns. The interior is especially eye-catching. Box seats rise up four stories along the walls of the theater, and there's not a bad seat in the house.

Templo de Cata
Up above the city, perched on the mountain to the north, is this small, elaborate "miners' church." Cata is also the name of the mine nearby and the barrio (neighborhood) that surrounds the church. A lovely baroque facade, with just one tower standing, decorates the outside. Until a couple of years ago, this church held an enormous number of personal testimonials that covered the walls from floor to ceiling. Most of these took the traditional form of small square sheets of metal with painted scenes (in a primitive folk style) and explanatory text describing the miracles performed by the church's Señor de Villaseca. "El Trigueñito" (roughly translated as "the olive-skinned one"), as he is affectionately called, is a popular figure in Guanajuato, especially with miners and truck and taxi drivers. The testimonials were a touching display of the highly personal relationship these people have with El Trigueñito. What has become of all these testimonials is now the question. At first, the removal of the testimonials was supposed to be temporary, but I suspect they might not be coming back.