Tips for travel to Merida
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Introduction
Merida is known as the "white city"; it's also the
Capital City of the State of Yucatan, famous for its rich Mayan
history and of course some of Mexico's most important archaeological
sites.
Because of the large peninsula on Mexico's southern region, Merida
is actually a few degrees further north than the nation's Capital,
even though people in Mexico City talk of travelling "south"
to Merida. It's difficult to get lost in Merida itself; the city
is laid out in a grid with even numbered streets running north-south;
odd numbers east-west.
As the State's Capital, Merida is a hub of activity and extremely
well connected by land and air to other parts of the region and
the country. The city has a considerable charm and buzz about
it; and it's contrasts help this to come about: Merida is cosmopolitan
and quaint; Mexican but with a strong Mayan influence.
The city is an excellent base from which to explore the rest
of the region, including the Archaeological wonders of Chichen
Itza and Uxmal and many other less well known, but equally important
ruins in the vicinity.
There are hotels and amenities here to suit every budget, style
and taste and there is always something happening in Merida: concerts,
festivals, parades and celebrations are almost a constant feature
in this vibrant city.
Getting around is easy; the streets are laid out in a grid format
and you can walk to most of the main attractions in the centre;
and even taking a cab to the places further away from the heart
of the city is good value thanks to the well managed taxi system
introduced by the local government here.
Historically, Merida's wealthy inhabitants were land barons;
the scale of their wealth can be seen today on Paseo Montejo,
an avenue which was inspired by the "Paseo de la Reforma"
in Mexico City and which is host to large, opulent white stone
mansions, which today house, in the main, public buildings, museums
and corporate offices. Today Merida's wealth is built around the
maquiladoras (assembly plants) and tourism, both of which have
grown significantly during the last two decades.
In recent years, Merida has seen and continues to undergo an
explosion of art and culture. If you're travelling around Mexico's
southern peninsula, a visit to Merida is a must; better still
as a base from which to explore the region, but even if you've
only come to this part of the world to see beaches or archaeology;
spend a day or three in Merida, you won't leave disappointed.
What To Do
Colonial Centre
The central plaza, Plaza Grande, is dominated by the Catedral
de San Idelfonso; it's not the most striking in Mexico, but its
size is immediately apparent when you arrive at the main square.
The Municipal Palace is on the opposite side of the square while
the Government Palace, which looks alright on the outside but
is stunningly attractive inside, features some wonderful paintings
and murals that depict Yucatan's rich Mayan history, in contrast
to the murals and paintings in Government Palaces in central and
northern Mexico, where it is the Aztec indigenous cultures that
feature.
On the south side of the Plaza Grande is the Casa de Montejo
which locals sometimes refer to as the "Palacio de Montejo".
It was a private home, inhabited by the descendents of its creator
(and Merida's founder), Francisco de Montejo until 1980. Most
of the building is closed to the public; today it's a working
bank branch for Banamex and also offers currency exchange.
Paseo de Montejo
The "White City" title that Merida has derives from
the stately homes and mansions that adorn the sides of Paseo Montejo,
about 10 blocks north of the centre, standing opulently in gleaming
white stone. The Paseo de Montejo is a tree-lined boulevard, which
was supposed to be as grand as Mexico City's "Reforma Avenue".
There are still some private homes along here, although many of
the buildings have been turned into banks, offices and one of
the most majestic buildings is now home to Yucatan's Museum of
Anthropology.
Museums
Merida has a number of fine museums.
The most significant is the impressively houses Museo de Antropologia
(Anthropology Museum) which is situated at the majestic Palacio
Canton on Paseo de Montejo. This museum holds many of the fine
artefacts from the Mayan ruins and also explains much about the
history of the region going back to age of mastodons. Note that
much of the information is provided in Spanish only.
The Museo Nacional de Arte Popular (National Popular Arts Museum)
is a few blocks northeast of the Plaza Grande and offers displays
of fine art and crafts from the locality.
On Calle 61 you'll find the Museo de la Ciudad (City Museum)
which displays a history of the city and the region.
Parks, Gardens and Zoo
To see a park full of trees, one from each country on the American
Continent, visit Parque de las Americas which is Avenida Colon.
There's a children's playground, zoo, botanical gardens visit
Parque Centenario. The zoo features some exotic species of animals
as well as fauna from the region.
Dining
Eladio's - This is where locals come to relax
in their off hours, drink very cold beer, and snack or dine on
Yucatecan specialties. You have two choices: order a beer and
enjoy una botana (a small portion that accompanies a drink, in
this case usually a Yucatecan dish), or order from the menu. Cochinita,
poc chuc, and longaniza asada (a local variety of sausage) are
all good. Or try a panucho or salbute if you're there in the evening.
Often there is live music in this open-air restaurant, which is
around the corner from Los Almendros, by Parque la Mejorada.
Restaurante Kantun - This modest little restaurant
serves up the freshest seafood for a good price. The owner-chef,
a son of a cook, is always on the premises taking care of details.
The menu includes excellent ceviches and seafood cocktails, and
fish cooked in a number of ways. The dining room is air-conditioned,
the furniture comfortable, and the service attentive.
Alberto's Continental - There's nothing quite
like dining here at night in a softly lit room or on the wonderful
old patio framed in Moorish arches. Nothing glitzy -- just elegant
mudejar-patterned tile floors, simple furniture, decoration that's
just so, and the gurgling of a fountain creating a romantic mood.
For supper, you can choose a sampler plate of four Lebanese favorites,
or traditional Yucatecan specialties, such as pollo pibil or fish
Celestún (bass stuffed with shrimp). You can finish with
Turkish coffee.
Entertainment
Mérida's club scene offers everything from ubiquitous
rock/dance to some one-of-a-kind spots that are nothing like what
you find back home. Most of the dance clubs are in the big hotels
or on Paseo de Montejo. For dancing, a small cluster of clubs
on Calle 60, around the corner from Santa Lucía, offer
live rock and Latin music.
Teatro Peón Contreras, Calle 60 at Calle 57, and Teatro
Ayala, Calle 60 at Calle 61, feature a wide range of performing
artists from Mexico and around the world. El Nuevo Olimpo, on
the main square, schedules frequent concerts; and Cine Mérida,
a half-block north of the Nuevo Olimpo, has two screens for showing
classic and art films, and one live stage.
Note: This information was accurate when it was published,
but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates
and details directly with the companies in question before planning
your trip.
Entry Requirements
* As of October 1, 2007, ALL persons, including U.S. citizens,
traveling by air between the United States and Canada, Mexico,
Central and South America, the Caribbean, and Bermuda will be
required to present a valid passport, Air NEXUS card, or U.S.
Coast Guard Merchant Mariner Document, or an Alien Registration
Card, Form I-551, if applicable.
* As early as January 1, 2008, ALL persons, including U.S. citizens,
traveling between the U.S. and Canada, Mexico, Central and South
America, the Caribbean, and Bermuda by land or sea, may be required
to present a valid passport or other documents as determined by
the Department of Homeland Security. While recent legislative
changes permit a later deadline, the Departments of State and
Homeland Security are working to meet all requirements as soon
as possible. Ample advance notice will be provided to enable the
public to obtain passports or passport cards for land/sea entries.
Please be sure the name you give to our Reservations Specialists
matches your Driver's License and your Passport. Married women
with a different last name should carry a marriage license or
a notarized affidavit with their married name.
Money
Banks & ATMs
Banks in Mexico are rapidly expanding and improving services.
They tend to be open weekdays from 9am until 5pm, and often for
at least a half day on Saturday. In larger resorts and cities,
they can generally accommodate the exchange of dollars (which
used to stop at noon) anytime during business hours. During times
when the currency is in flux, a particular bank may not exchange
dollars, so check before standing in line. Some, but not all,
banks charge a service fee of about 1% to exchange traveler's
checks. However, you can pay for most purchases directly with
traveler's checks at the establishment's stated exchange rate.
Don't even bother with personal checks drawn on a U.S. bank --
the bank will wait for your check to clear, which can take weeks,
before giving you your money.
Travelers to Mexico can easily withdraw money from ATMs (automated
teller machine) in most major cities and resort areas. In most
resorts in Mexico, the use of ATMs is perfectly safe -- just use
the same precautions you would at any ATM. Universal bank cards
(such as the Cirrus and PLUS systems) can be used. This is a convenient
way to withdraw money and avoid carrying too much with you at
any time. The exchange rate is generally more favorable than that
at a casas de cambio. Most machines offer Spanish/English menus
and dispense pesos, but some offer the option of withdrawing dollars.
The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587) networks
span the globe; look at the back of your bank card to see which
network you're on, then call or check online for ATM locations
at your destination. Be sure you know your personal identification
number (PIN) before you leave home and be sure to find out your
daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Also keep in mind that
many banks impose a fee every time a card is used at a different
bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions
(up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones (where they're rarely
more than $1.50). On top of this, the bank from which you withdraw
cash may charge its own fee.
Traveler's Checks
Traveler's checks are something of an anachronism from
the days before the ATM made cash accessible at any time. Traveler's
checks used to be the only sound alternative to traveling with
dangerously large amounts of cash. They were as reliable as currency,
but, unlike cash, could be replaced if lost or stolen.
You can get traveler's checks at almost any bank. You can also
get American Express traveler's checks over the phone by calling
tel. 800/221-7282.
Visa offers traveler's checks at Citibank locations nationwide,
as well as at several other banks. Call tel. 800/732-1322 for
information. AAA members can obtain Visa checks without a fee
at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378. MasterCard
also offers traveler's checks. Call tel. 800/223-9920 for a location
near you.
If you choose to carry traveler's checks, be sure to keep a record
of their serial numbers separate from your checks in the event
that they are stolen or lost. You'll get a refund faster if you
know the numbers.
Credit Cards
Credit cards are a safe way to carry money: They also provide
a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer
relatively good exchange rates. You can also withdraw cash advances
from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, provided you know your
PIN. If you've forgotten yours, or didn't even know you had one,
call the number on the back of your credit card and ask the bank
to send it to you. It usually takes 5 to 7 business days, though
some banks will provide the number over the phone if you tell
them your mother's maiden name or some other personal information.
Charges will be made in pesos, then converted into dollars by
the bank issuing the credit card. Generally you receive the favorable
bank rate when paying by credit card. However, be aware that some
establishments in Mexico add a 5% to 7% surcharge when you pay
with a credit card. This is especially true when using American
Express. Many times, advertised discounts will not apply if you
pay with a credit card.
Dear Visa: I'm Off to Merida! -- Some credit card companies recommend
that you notify them of any impending trip abroad so that they
don't become suspicious and block your charges when the card is
used numerous times in a foreign destination. Even if you don't
call your credit card company in advance, you can always call
the toll-free emergency number if a charge is refused -- a good
reason to carry the phone number with you. But perhaps the most
important lesson is to carry more than one card on your trip;
if one card doesn't work for any number of reasons, you'll have
a backup.
Emergency
Centro Medico de las Americas
Address: Calle 54 No. 365, (intersection of Avenida Perez Ponce),
Merida, Mexico, 97000
Phone: 55.99.26.2111
Clinica de Merida
Address: Avenida Itzaes No. 242, Colonia Garcia Gineres, Merida,
Mexico, 97070
Phone: 52.99.20.0411
Emergency Contacts
Ambulance: 060
Police: 060
Fire: 060
Map of Merida

Fun Things To Do in Merida
Attractions & Activities
Merida Attractions
Most of Mérida's attractions are within walking distance
from the downtown area.
Exploring Plaza Major
Downtown Mérida is a great example of a lowland
colonial city. The town has a casual, relaxed feel. Buildings
lack the severe baroque and neoclassical features that characterize
central Mexico; most are finished in stucco and painted light
colors. Mérida's gardens add to this relaxed, tropical
atmosphere. Gardeners do not strive for control over nature. Here,
natural exuberance is the ideal, with plants growing in a wild
profusion that disguises human intervention. Mérida's plazas
are a slightly different version of this aesthetic: Unlike the
highland plazas, with their carefully sculpted trees, Mérida's
squares are typically built around large trees that are left to
grow as tall as possible. Hurricane Isidore blew down several
of these in 2002, and has changed the appearance of these plazas
as well as the Paseo de Montejo.
Plaza Mayor has this sort of informality. Even when there's no
orchestrated event in progress, the park is full of people sitting
on the benches, talking with friends, or taking a casual stroll.
A plaza like this is a great advantage for a big city such as
Mérida, giving it a personal feel and a sense of community.
Notice the beautiful scale and composition of the major buildings
surrounding it. The most prominent of these is the cathedral.
The oldest cathedral on the continent, it was built between 1561
and 1598. Much of the stone in the cathedral's walls came from
the ruined buildings of Tihó, the former Maya city. The
original finish was stucco, and you can see some remnants still
clinging to the bare rock. However, people like the way the unfinished
walls show the cathedral's age. Notice how the two top levels
of the bell towers are built off-center from their bases -- an
uncommon feature. Inside, decoration is sparse, with altars draped
in fabric colorfully embroidered like a Maya woman's shift. The
most notable item is a picture of Ah Kukum Tutul Xiú, chief
of the Xiú people, visiting the Montejo camp to make peace;
it's hanging over the side door on the right.
To the left of the main altar is a small shrine with a curious
figure of Christ that is a replica of one recovered from a burned-out
church in the town of Ichmul. In the 1500s a local artist carved
the original figure from a miraculous tree that was hit by lightning
and burst into flames -- but did not char. The statue later became
blistered in the church fire at Ichmul, but it survived. In 1645
it was moved to the cathedral in Mérida, where the locals
attached great powers to the figure, naming it Cristo de las Ampollas
(Christ of the Blisters). It did not, however, survive the sacking
of the cathedral in 1915 by revolutionary forces, so another figure,
modeled after the original, was made.
Next door to the cathedral is the old bishop's palace, now converted
into the city's contemporary art museum, Museo de Arte Contemporáneo
Ateneo de Yucatán. The palace was confiscated and rebuilt
during the Mexican Revolution in 1915. The museum's entrance faces
the cathedral from the recently constructed walkway between the
two buildings called the Pasaje de la Revolución. The 17
exhibition rooms display work by contemporary artists, mostly
from the Yucatán. Nine of the rooms hold the museum's permanent
collection; the rest are for temporary exhibits.
Exploring Calle 60
Heading north from Plaza Mayor up Calle 60, you'll see many of
Mérida's old churches and squares. Several stores along
Calle 60 sell gold-filigree jewelry, pottery, clothing, and folk
art. A stroll along this street leads to the Parque Santa Ana
and continues to the fashionable boulevard Paseo de Montejo and
its Museo Regional de Antropología (Anthropology Museum).
The first place of interest is the Teatro Daniel de Ayala, only
because it sometimes schedules interesting performances. On the
right side of Calle 60 will be a small park called Parque Cepeda
Peraza (or Parque Hidalgo). Named for 19th-century General Manuel
Cepeda Peraza, the parque was part of Montejo's original city
plan. Small outdoor restaurants front hotels on the park, making
it a popular stopping place at any time of day. Across Calle 59
is the Iglesia de Jesús, or El Tercer Orden (the Third
Order). Built by the Jesuit order in 1618, it has the richest
interior of any church in Mérida, making it a favorite
spot for weddings. The entire block on which the church stands
belonged to the Jesuits, who are known as great educators. The
school they left behind after their expulsion became the Universidad
de Yucatán.
Exploring the Paseo de Montejo
The Paseo de Montejo is a broad, tree-lined boulevard
that runs north-south starting at Calle 47, 7 blocks north and
2 blocks east of the main square. In the late 19th century, stalwarts
of Mérida's upper crust (mostly plantation owners) decided
that the city needed something grander than its traditional narrow
streets lined by wall-to-wall town houses. They built this monumentally
proportioned boulevard and lined it with mansions. Things went
sour with the henequén bust, but several of these mansions
survive -- some in private hands, others as offices, restaurants,
or consulates. Today, this is the fashionable part of town, with
many restaurants, trendy dance clubs, and expensive hotels.
Of the mansions that survived, the most notable is the Palacio
Cantón, which houses the Museo Regional de Antropología
(Anthropology Museum). Designed and built by Enrico Deserti, the
architect of the Teatro Peón Contreras, it was constructed
between 1909 and 1911, during the last years of the Porfiriato.
It was the residence of General Francisco Cantón Rosado,
who enjoyed his palace for only 6 years before dying in 1917.
For a time the mansion served as the official residence of the
state's governor.
Viewing the museum also affords you an opportunity to see some
of the surviving interior architecture. The museum's main focus
is the pre-Columbian cultures of the peninsula, especially the
Maya. Topics include cosmology, history, and culture. Captions
for the permanent displays are mostly in Spanish. Starting with
fossil mastodon teeth, the exhibits take you through the Yucatán's
history, paying special attention to the daily life of its inhabitants.
Note: This information was accurate when it was published,
but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates
and details directly with the companies in question before planning
your trip.
Merida Activities
Downtown Mérida is a great example of
a lowland colonial city. The town has a casual, relaxed feel.
Buildings lack the severe baroque and neoclassical features that
characterize central Mexico; most are finished in stucco and painted
light colors. Mérida's gardens add to this relaxed, tropical
atmosphere. Gardeners do not strive for control over nature. Here,
natural exuberance is the ideal, with plants growing in a wild
profusion that disguises human intervention. A perfect example
is the courtyard in the Palacio Montejo. Mérida's plazas
are a slightly different version of this aesthetic: Unlike the
highland plazas, with their carefully sculpted trees, Mérida's
squares are typically built around large trees that are left to
grow as tall as possible. Hurricane Isidore blew down some of
these last year, which has changed the appearance of these plazas
as well as the Paseo de Montejo.
Plaza Mayor (often referred to as El Centro)
has this sort of informality. Even when there's no orchestrated
event in progress, the park is full of people sitting on the benches,
talking with friends, or taking a casual stroll. A plaza like
this is a great advantage for a big city such as Mérida,
giving it a personal feel and a sense of community. Notice the
beautiful scale and composition of the major buildings surrounding
it. The most prominent of these is the cathedral.
The oldest cathedral on the continent, it was built between 1561
and 1598. Much of the stone in the cathedral's walls came from
the ruined buildings of Tihó, the former Maya city. The
original finish was stucco, and you can see some remnants still
clinging to the bare rock. However, people like the way the unfinished
walls show the cathedral's age. Notice how the two top levels
of the bell towers are built off-center from their bases -- an
uncommon feature. Inside, decoration is sparse, with altars draped
in fabric colorfully embroidered like a Maya woman's shift. The
most notable item is a picture of Ah Kukum Tutul Xiú, chief
of the Xiú people, visiting the Montejo camp to make peace;
it's hanging over the side door on the right.
To the left of the main altar is a small shrine with a curious
figure of Christ that is a replica of one recovered from a burned-out
church in the town of Ichmul. In the 1500s a local artist carved
the original figure from a miraculous tree that was hit by lightning
and burst into flames -- but did not char. The statue later became
blistered in the church fire at Ichmul, but it survived. In 1645
it was moved to the cathedral in Mérida, where the locals
attached great powers to the figure, naming it Cristo de las Ampollas
(Christ of the Blisters). It did not, however, survive the sacking
of the cathedral in 1915 by revolutionary forces, so another figure,
modeled after the original, was made. Take a look in the side
chapel (open daily 8-11am and 4:30-7pm), which contains a life-size
diorama of the Last Supper. The Mexican Jesus is covered with
prayer crosses brought by supplicants asking for intercession.
Next door to the cathedral is the old bishop's palace, now converted
into the city's contemporary art museum, Museo de Arte Contemporáneo
Ateneo de Yucatán (tel. 999/928-3236). The palace was confiscated
and rebuilt during the Mexican Revolution in 1915. The museum's
entrance faces the cathedral from the recently constructed walkway
between the two buildings called the Pasaje de la Revolución.
The 17 exhibition rooms display work by contemporary artists,
mostly from the Yucatán. (The best known are Fernando García
Ponce and Fernando Castro Pacheco, whose works also hang in the
government palace described below.) Nine of the rooms hold the
museum's permanent collection; the rest are for temporary exhibits.
Moving clockwise around the plaza, on the south side is the Palacio
Montejo. Its facade, with heavy decoration around the doorway
and windows, is a good example of the Spanish architectural style
known as plateresque. But the content of the decoration is very
much a New World creation. Conquering the Yucatán was the
Montejo family business, begun by the original Francisco Montejo
and continued by his son and nephew, both named Francisco Montejo.
Construction of the house started in 1542 under the son, Francisco
Montejo El Mozo ("The Younger"). Bordering the entrance
are politically incorrect figures of conquistadors standing on
the heads of vanquished Indians -- borrowed, perhaps, from the
pre-Hispanic custom of portraying victorious Maya kings treading
on their defeated foes. The posture of the conquistadors and their
facial expression of wide-eyed dismay make them less imposing
than the Montejos might have wished. A bank now occupies the building,
but you can enter the courtyard, view the garden, and see for
yourself what a charming residence it must have been for the descendants
of the Montejos, who lived here as recently as the 1970s. (Curiously
enough, not only does Mérida society keep track of who
is descended from the Montejos, but it also keeps track of who
is descended from the last Maya king, Tutul Xiú.)
In stark contrast to the severity of the cathedral and Casa Montejo
is the light, unimposing Palacio Municipal (town hall) or Ayuntamiento.
The exterior dates from the mid-19th century, an era when a tropicalist
aesthetic tinged with romanticism began asserting itself across
coastal Latin America. On the second floor, you can see the meeting
hall of the city council and enjoy a lovely view of the plaza
from the balcony. Next door to the Ayuntamiento is a recently
completed building called El Nuevo Olimpo (The New Olympus). It
took the place of the old Olimpo, which a misguided town council
demolished in the 1970s, to the regret of many older Meridanos.
The new building tries to incorporate elements of the original
while presenting something new. It holds concert and gallery space,
a bookstore, and a lovely courtyard. There is a comfortable cafe
under the arches, and a bulletin board at the entrance to the
courtyard with postings of upcoming performances.
Cater-corner from the Nuevo Olimpo is the old Casa del Alguacil
(Magistrate's House). Under its arcades is something of an institution
in Mérida: the Dulcería y Sorbetería Colón,
an ice cream and sweet shop that will appeal to those who prefer
less-rich ice creams. A spectacular side doorway on Calle 62 bears
viewing, and across the street is the new Cine Mérida,
with two movie screens showing art films and one stage for live
performances. Returning to the main plaza, down a bit from the
ice cream store is a shopping center of boutiques and convenience
food vendors called Pasaje Picheta. At the end of the arcade is
the Palacio de Gobierno, dating from 1892. Large murals by the
Yucatecan artist Fernando Castro Pacheco, executed between 1971
and 1973, decorate the walls of the courtyard. Scenes from Maya
and Mexican history abound, and the painting over the stairway
depicts the Maya spirit with ears of sacred corn, the "sunbeams
of the gods." Nearby is a painting of mustachioed Lázaro
Cárdenas, who as president in 1938 expropriated 17 foreign
oil companies and was hailed as a Mexican liberator. Upstairs
is a long, wide gallery with more of Pacheco's paintings, which
achieve their effect by localizing color and imitating the photographic
technique of double exposure.
Further down Calle 61 is the Museo de la Ciudad. It faces the
side of the cathedral and occupies the former church of San Juan
de Dios. An exhibit outlining the history of Mérida will
be of interest to those curious about the city; there is explanatory
text in English.
Note: This information was accurate when it was published,
but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates
and details directly with the companies in question before planning
your trip.
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