Tips for travel to Oaxaca
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Introduction
The city of Oaxaca, originally called Antequera, was founded
just a few years after the Spanish vanquished the Aztec. Most
of Oaxaca's central valley was granted to Hernán Cortez
for his services to the crown. Three centuries of colonial rule
followed, during which the region remained calm.
In the years following independence, there was more or less continuous
upheaval. From the 1830s to the 1860s, the Liberals and Conservatives
fought for control of Mexico's destiny, with the French eventually
intervening on the side of the Conservatives. One man, a Zapotec
Indian from Oaxaca, led the resistance against the French and
played the key role in shaping Mexico's future. He was Benito
Juárez, and his handiwork is known to history as La Reforma.
Born in the village of Guelatao, north of Oaxaca City, Juárez
was adopted by a wealthy Oaxacan family who clothed and educated
him in return for his services as a houseboy. He fell in love
with the daughter of his benefactor and promised he would become
rich and famous and return to marry her. He did all three and
became president of the republic in 1861. Juárez is revered
throughout Mexico.
What To Do
There is so much sightseeing to do inside and outside Oaxaca
that you have to be sure to allow some idle time for enjoying
the zócalo. In the traffic-free square, you can relax while
getting a feel for the town and a good glimpse of Oaxacan society.
We recommend going in the late afternoon and taking a seat at
the outdoor cafe with the best view of the cathedral. You can
get a beer or order a bowl of the traditional drink of Oaxaca:
chocolate. The afternoon light filters through the shiny green
leaves of the laurel trees, heightening the color of the cathedral's
green stone. As dusk comes, a small drill corps enters stage left
and performs a flag-lowering ceremony with much pomp and circumstance.
Then the marimba or the municipal band usually strikes up in the
central bandstand.
The city contains museums worth visiting, some interesting churches,
and colorful markets. Outside town are the famous ruins of Monte
Albán and Mitla, and area villages known for their arts
and crafts. It is sometimes best to check these out on market
day.
Dining
Oaxacan cooking has a great reputation in Mexico. It makes use
of more ingredients from the lowlands than central Mexican cooking.
It's known for its moles, and for a wide variety of chiles, many
of which you don't find in other parts of the country.
Itanoni - This business began as a tortilla shop.
The owner then decided to branch out into making other things
with his masa (mortar) besides tortillas. He is fascinated with
the different forms of native corn and makes use of their varying
characteristics in the cooking. The dishes are simple, traditional
antojitos such as tacos, quesadillas, and memelitas.
El Naranjo - El Naranjo, where the emphasis is
on Oaxacan specialties, is a favorite restaurant in the city.
The owner and chef, Iliana de la Vega, prepares dishes that she
grew up cooking and eating. She has added some others and made
alterations, such as reducing the fat, to bring out the flavors
of the vegetables, herbs, and chiles. If you have a craving for
a salad but have been reluctant, this is your chance -- all is
safe here. For a main dish, try the featured mole of the day.
For an especially exotic flavor, try fish cooked in the leaves
of hoja santa (an herb) with a tangy sauce made from the guajillo
chile. For something spicier, try the pasilla oaxaqueño,
a chile stuffed with string cheese. A milder choice is poblano
chile stuffed with squash blossoms. The restaurant occupies the
roofed courtyard of a colonial house 1 1/2 blocks from the southwest
corner of the zócalo. El Naranjo also hosts cooking classes.
Note: This information was accurate when it was published,
but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates
and details directly with the companies in question before planning
your trip.
Entertainment
If you are interested in seeing the region's traditional dances,
you can check out the small-scale Guelaguetza performed by professional
dancers at the Hotel Camino Real on Fridays.
Concerts and dance programs take place all year at the Teatro
Macedonio de Alcalá, Independencia and Armenta y López.
Schedules are often posted by the front doors of the theater.
In the early evening, the zócalo is a happening place,
with all sorts of people out and about. The municipal brass band
and marimba players perform free concerts on alternating nights.
As the night wears on, usually you'll find some mariachis hanging
about.
Entry Requirements
* As of October 1, 2007, ALL persons, including U.S. citizens,
traveling by air between the United States and Canada, Mexico,
Central and South America, the Caribbean, and Bermuda will be
required to present a valid passport, Air NEXUS card, or U.S.
Coast Guard Merchant Mariner Document, or an Alien Registration
Card, Form I-551, if applicable.
* As early as January 1, 2008, ALL persons, including U.S. citizens,
traveling between the U.S. and Canada, Mexico, Central and South
America, the Caribbean, and Bermuda by land or sea, may be required
to present a valid passport or other documents as determined by
the Department of Homeland Security. While recent legislative
changes permit a later deadline, the Departments of State and
Homeland Security are working to meet all requirements as soon
as possible. Ample advance notice will be provided to enable the
public to obtain passports or passport cards for land/sea entries.
Please be sure the name you give to our Reservations Specialists
matches your Driver's License and your Passport. Married women
with a different last name should carry a marriage license or
a notarized affidavit with their married name.
Money
Banks & ATMs
Banks in Mexico are rapidly expanding and improving services.
They tend to be open weekdays from 9am until 5pm, and often for
at least a half day on Saturday. In larger resorts and cities,
they can generally accommodate the exchange of dollars (which
used to stop at noon) anytime during business hours. During times
when the currency is in flux, a particular bank may not exchange
dollars, so check before standing in line. Some, but not all,
banks charge a service fee of about 1% to exchange traveler's
checks. However, you can pay for most purchases directly with
traveler's checks at the establishment's stated exchange rate.
Don't even bother with personal checks drawn on a U.S. bank --
the bank will wait for your check to clear, which can take weeks,
before giving you your money.
Travelers to Mexico can easily withdraw money from ATMs (automated
teller machine) in most major cities and resort areas. In most
resorts in Mexico, the use of ATMs is perfectly safe -- just use
the same precautions you would at any ATM. Universal bank cards
(such as the Cirrus and PLUS systems) can be used. This is a convenient
way to withdraw money and avoid carrying too much with you at
any time. The exchange rate is generally more favorable than that
at a casas de cambio. Most machines offer Spanish/English menus
and dispense pesos, but some offer the option of withdrawing dollars.
The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587) networks
span the globe; look at the back of your bank card to see which
network you're on, then call or check online for ATM locations
at your destination. Be sure you know your personal identification
number (PIN) before you leave home and be sure to find out your
daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Also keep in mind that
many banks impose a fee every time a card is used at a different
bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions
(up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones (where they're rarely
more than $1.50). On top of this, the bank from which you withdraw
cash may charge its own fee.
Traveler's Checks
Traveler's checks are something of an anachronism from
the days before the ATM made cash accessible at any time. Traveler's
checks used to be the only sound alternative to traveling with
dangerously large amounts of cash. They were as reliable as currency,
but, unlike cash, could be replaced if lost or stolen.
You can get traveler's checks at almost any bank. You can also
get American Express traveler's checks over the phone by calling
tel. 800/221-7282.
Visa offers traveler's checks at Citibank locations nationwide,
as well as at several other banks. Call tel. 800/732-1322 for
information. AAA members can obtain Visa checks without a fee
at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378. MasterCard
also offers traveler's checks. Call tel. 800/223-9920 for a location
near you.
If you choose to carry traveler's checks, be sure to keep a record
of their serial numbers separate from your checks in the event
that they are stolen or lost. You'll get a refund faster if you
know the numbers.
Credit Cards
Credit cards are a safe way to carry money: They also provide
a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer
relatively good exchange rates. You can also withdraw cash advances
from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, provided you know your
PIN. If you've forgotten yours, or didn't even know you had one,
call the number on the back of your credit card and ask the bank
to send it to you. It usually takes 5 to 7 business days, though
some banks will provide the number over the phone if you tell
them your mother's maiden name or some other personal information.
Charges will be made in pesos, then converted into dollars by
the bank issuing the credit card. Generally you receive the favorable
bank rate when paying by credit card. However, be aware that some
establishments in Mexico add a 5% to 7% surcharge when you pay
with a credit card. This is especially true when using American
Express. Many times, advertised discounts will not apply if you
pay with a credit card.
Dear Visa: I'm Off to Oaxaca! -- Some credit card companies recommend
that you notify them of any impending trip abroad so that they
don't become suspicious and block your charges when the card is
used numerous times in a foreign destination. Even if you don't
call your credit card company in advance, you can always call
the toll-free emergency number if a charge is refused -- a good
reason to carry the phone number with you. But perhaps the most
important lesson is to carry more than one card on your trip;
if one card doesn't work for any number of reasons, you'll have
a backup.
Emergency
Emergencies Police dial 9/516-0774; hospital dial 9/515-3709.
Map of Oaxaca

Fun Things To Do in Oaxaca
Attractions & Activities
Oaxaca Attractions
Basilica de la Soledada - The Basílica
is the most important religious center in Oaxaca, and its Virgin
is the patroness of the entire state. Adjoining the church is
a former convent with a small but charming museum in back. A huge
celebration on and around December 18 honors the Virgin, attracting
penitents from all over Oaxaca. She is famous for her vestments,
which are encrusted with pearls. (Until a few years ago, she had
a crown of silver and jewels, which was stolen.) As with most
Virgins, there is a story behind her. The short version is that
her figure (actually just her hands and face) was found in a box
on the back of a burro that didn't belong to anyone. The burro
sat down on an outcropping of rock and refused to get up. This
was the spot where the Virgin revealed herself and, consequently,
where the basilica (completed in 1690) was constructed. You can
still see the outcropping of rock, surrounded by a cage of iron
bars, immediately to your right along the wall as you enter the
church.
Museo Regional de Oaxaca - Next to the Santo
Domingo Church (6 blocks north of the zócalo) is the most
impressive museum in the city, housed in a former Dominican convent
-- one of the greatest of colonial Mexico. Construction was largely
completed by the early 1600s. The government has spent millions
to renovate the former convent, and it shows. The stairs, the
arches, the cupolas -- everywhere you look, there are lovely details
in stone or in the remnants of colonial-era murals. The museum
is an ambitious project that displays the course of human development
in the Oaxaca valley from earliest times to the 20th century.
Oaxaca Activities
Hiking & Biking -- Northwest of the city
of Oaxaca is a mountain range known as the Sierra Norte that is
cooler and wetter than the valley. The native communities offer
guides and simple lodging for active sorts who are interested
in seeing yet another side of Mexico.
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